The Bacon Blog

Hemingway's Michigan

August 27, 2010

Dear Loyal Readers,

Although I was officially on vacation this week, because I spent a few days retracing Ernest Hemingway's haunts in Northern Michigan, I decided to take a couple hours - more than I intended! -- to combine two pieces, one that ran in the Detroit News in 1998, and one that Time commissioned in 1999 but didn't run, due to JFK Jr.'s tragic plane crash the same week. 

I was inspired by meeting again with Ernest H. Mainland, Hemingway's nephew, whom I first met 12 years ago pursuing these pieces.  He has become a good friend.  Then, after a round of golf, I coaxed another old friend, Jeff Johnson, into joining me for an impromptu tour of nearby Horton Bay.  While telling Jeff about some of the stories Hemingway based there, a man named Robert walked down the road and joined us, then invited us for a drink with his girlfriend at his rental cabin just up the road -- which turned out to be Shangri-La, where the Hemingways honeymooned in 1922. 

Needless to say, when I returned to Chicago on Thursday, I felt compelled to combine my pieces on Hemingway into one narrative, and deliver it to you. 

Hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed researching, writing and revising it. 

See you next week.

-John



HEMINGWAY’S MICHIGAN

HORTON BAY -- Ernest Hemingway gave the world novels that are still treasured 49 years after his death, but he gave the folks in Michigan something extra.

Before Hemingway earned wealth, fame and a Nobel Prize for his books about Europe and Africa, Key West and Cuba, he wrote short stories about life in Petoskey, Charlevoix and tiny Horton Bay. 

Hemingway's highly autobiographical stories celebrate the kind of rustic northern living thousands of us have enjoyed since.  Written more than eight decades ago, stories like "Summer People," "Three Day Blow" and "The End of Something" still resonate with Michigan readers.

In 1922, Hemingway made his last visit to the family cabin on Walloon Lake, near Petoskey.  A few years after that, he wrote his final piece about the area.  But the short stories' clear, uncomplicated writing introduced a style no one had seen before, and his first tales have proven to be as enduring as the beauty of the region he wrote about. 


FIRST LOVES

Like many wealthy Chicago families at the turn of the century, the Hemingways escaped the Second City’s muggy weather by migrating to northern Michigan each summer.  (This is why Michigan’s west coast was settled not by Detroiters, but Chicagoans.)  Ernest Hemingway saw Walloon Lake, about 90 miles northeast of Traverse City, for the first time as a six-week-old baby in 1899, and every summer thereafter through 1921.

At the turn of the century, just getting there required the Hemingways to board a train ride from their home in Oak Park to Chicago, a horse taxi to the Lake Michigan pier, a steamer to Harbor Springs, a narrow-gauge train to Petoskey, another train to Walloon Lake, and a smaller wood-burning steamer to the Hemingway's cottage.

It was there, and not in the family's stuffy hometown, that Hemingway first learned about fishing and drinking, romance and writing -- the very things that continue to define his legacy.

The people who introduced Hemingway to these pleasures appeared a few years later as characters in his highly autobiographical short stories --often by their real names.

In "Three Day Blow," Hemingway's alter ego, Nick Adams, gets drunk while discussing baseball, fishing and women with Bill, a ringer for real-life summer friend Bill Smith.  In the unfinished "Summer People," Adams and Katy -- named after Bill's sister, a real-life flame of Hemingway's -- make love in the forest surrounding Lake Charlevoix. And in "The End of Something," Nick ends an affair on the beach of Horton Bay with Marjorie, inspired by a local waitress named Marge Bump.  

Naturally, in some of these stories Hemingway took reality and twisted it. A few women named in the stories later said they never consummated their relationships with Hemingway.  But they were still so accurate, one biographer described Hemingway's recollection of the area as "photographic."

But Hemingway did not sit down to write those stories until after he was married and living in Paris.  He could have written about the big cities where he had lived in North America and Europe, but he chose instead to devote his energies to the small towns of northern Michigan. He followed his famous advice -- write about what you know -- and what he knew best was Michigan's woods and waters. 


SINGING A NEW SONG

On the back of his novels, it says Hemingway’s “tough, terse prose and short, declarative sentences did more to change the style of written English than any other writer in the twentieth century.”  A lofty claim, perhaps, but probably true.

When Hemingway started writing, he borrowed not only Horton Bay’s scenes and people, he also its voice.  When Hemingway's readers fell in love with his character’s direct dialogue – so unlike the sophisticated speaking style of Oak Park or the baroque sentences of Key West -- few realized they were hearing the clear, clipped phrases of northern Michigan. And it wasn’t Sherwood Anderson or Gertrude Stein who first told Hemingway to reveal his characters through their own words.  It was Bill Smith, a Michigan fishing buddy.  From these gifts Hemingway built the foundation of his deceptively simple style.

Hemingway sought to “describe without frills, without the imposition of attitude,” wrote Anthony Burgess, who, in addition to writing, “A Clockwork Orange,” also produced a brief biography of Hemingway.  “This sounds easy now, chiefly because Hemingway has shown us how to do it, but it was not easy at a time when ‘literature’ still meant fine writing in the Victorian sense, with neo-Gothic decoration. 

“The Hemingway tune is in the ears of all young people who set out to write.”

Hemingway picked up that tune in northern Michigan, and sang it his entire life. 


A SENSE OF PLACE

In Paris and Pamplona, Oak Park and Key West, the locals shamelessly sell their connection to Hemingway to gullible tourists.  The annual running of the bulls in Spain, an event known to only a few Americans before Hemingway described it in his first novel, The Sun Also Rises, is now televised live each year on ESPN.  And Hemingway’s favorite Key West watering hole, Sloppy Joe’s, has plastered his likeness on everything from key chains to condoms to a web site, complete with a 24-hour “bar-cam.”

While other towns have sold off their Hemingway history piece by piece to gullible tourists, the place Hemingway loved the most -- northern Michigan-- has exploited his legacy the least. 

Despite the locals’ fierce protection of the Hemingways’ privacy, however, some Hemingway buffs manage to find the secluded summer home anyway. One stranger once walked in, uninvited, and was happily poking around the home when Mainland emerged from the shower.  “What the hell are you doing here?” Mainland asked.

“Well, it wasn’t locked,” the man said.

"We still have a chance of keeping tourists away,” Mainland says, “because so far they haven't banned land mines.”

Although he sells insurance in Petoskey, Mainland doesn't use his middle name on his cards nor on his door.  He says even most of his friends in town don't realize he’s Hemingway's nephew, and he likes it that way.  Mainland's son, Ken, has read only one Hemingway work, "The Old Man and the Sea," simply because it was required reading a tPetoskey High School.  "It was all right," he remembers. "I wrote my report on it and moved on.  I think I got a 'B.'"

The Hemingways’ cozy cottage is now dwarfed by million dollar homes, but Walloon Lake is just as cold, clear and captivating as it was one hundred years ago, with the cool morning mist burned off by the sun each afternoon, exactly as Hemingway described it in a high school poem.  

A few months before his wedding to Hadley Richardson in 1922, he confessed his fear that married life would keep him from his boyhood paradise. “Guy... loves a girl and the god dam (sic) streams can dry up for all he cares,” he wrote a Michigan friend.  “Only the hell of it is that all that country has as bad a hold on me as ever ... and you know how it’s always been... At night it comes and ruins me -- and I can’t go.”

His fears proved correct.  After their honeymoon at the family cabin,Hemingway never returned to his favorite place.

He should have. 


STILL THE SAME

If Hemingway traced his old footprints today, he would have no trouble finding his familiar haunts.   

To escape his overbearing mother, Hemingway thought nothing of rowing a mile across Walloon Lake, then walking three miles along roads that are still quiet, dusty and scented by the pine trees that line the route, into the tiny town of Horton Bay. Upon arriving in the two-road town of Horton Bay (which sits on the shore of a cove of the same name) Hemingway would discover the white clap board church where he and Hadley were married burned down decades ago, but he’d easily recognize the Horton Bay General Store, which has the same facade, the same wooden floor and the same fare of ice cream, candy and fresh bait.  He might notice a small revolving rack filled with his paperbacks, and a guest book with entries from Syria and Argentina, Germany and Japan, but he would not see his face staring back at him from tacky t-shirts and trinkets. 

Reassured by the familiarity of his former hamlet, he’d probably be willing to brave a walk down Lake Road to the water.  On the way he’d see Dilworth’s boarding house, which provided him refuge in the low-ceilinged room off the kitchen when he didn’t feel like making the long trek back to his parents’ cabin, is no longer open for business, and the extra room off the kitchen, where Hemingway’s old bunk bed used to be, is now used for storing rusty croquet sets and barbecue grills. But he’d be relieved to see the current owners have refrained from posting a sign saying “Hemingway Slept Here” -- although he did, many times.  And unlike the Lincoln Bedroom, this one’s never for rent.  

Next door, above the porch, he’d see an old board with “Shangri-La”engraved on it, identifying the place where Ernest and Hadley held their wedding reception 78 years ago.  When Debby and Jeff Hutchison decided to buy the home years ago, they weren’t aware of the Hemingway connection.  "We just bought it because it was a nice house," she said.  “And it has been.”  The people in Horton Bay generally talk about their famous resident as a former neighbor, not a Nobel laureate.

If the locals are nonchalant about their Hemingway connection, Hemingway was unabashed about his devotion to the area.  In 1924, while living in Paris, Hemingway started “Summer People,” the first of his highly autobiographical Nick Adams short stories.  "Halfway down the gravel road from Hortons Bay... to the lake there was a spring,” he wrote, “flowing away through the close-growing mint into the swamp." 

Three decades after “Summer People,” Hemingway started, “The Last Good Country,” in which he wrote, “There was a tin cup on a forked stick that was stuck in the gravel by the spring and Nick Adams looked at it and at the water rising and then flowing clear in its gravel bed beside the road… He could see both ways on the road and he looked up the hill and then down to the dock and the lake, and the wooded point across the bay...” 

The same tin cup Hemingway wrote about in 1951 hung from the same forked stick, undisturbed for decades, until the road was paved a few years ago.  No one wanted to steal the cup, or memorialize it. They just wanted to use it. 

The swamp, the spring and the close-growing mint are all still there, as they were.  These days the bay’s natural calm is occasionally broken by the wail of jet-skis, but the dock’s right there, and the point across the bay remains heavily wooded, haunted by the ghosts of Hemingway and his friends. 

Hemingway led a glamorous life filled with travel, adventure and famous people, but he always reserved a special place in his memory for the simple summers he'd spent up north.

In 1960, Hemingway finished "A Moveable Feast," his memoirs of 1920s Paris.  Even then, Michigan was still on his mind. Just a few months before he killed himself, he wrote, "The best sky was in Italy or Spain and in Northern Michigan in the fall."

It still is.


Major Fun in the Minor Leagues

August 20, 2010

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If you're sick of the big leagues, but not baseball, check out your backyard. 
 

Here in Michigan you can watch the Beach Bums in Traverse City, the Lugnuts in Lansing, the West Michigan Whitecaps near Grand Rapids, the Great Lake Loons in Midland, and the Kings in Kalamazoo.  Michigan fans can see six minor league teams if you count the Toledo Mudhens; and seven if the Tigers start slumping again. Michigan baseball fans haven’t had it this good in decades.
 

In 1949, the U.S. boasted almost 500 minor league teams, supported by forty-two million fans. But their ranks shriveled when major league baseball expanded, TV blossomed and air conditioning made staying at home much cooler. In just three years, attendance dropped almost 80-percent.
 

But when major league baseball turned its back on its fans with strikes and lockouts, the minor leagues aggressively courted them. Almost every fan-friendly custom you see at major league stadiums today they stole from the minors, including fancy food, daily promotions, pop music and endless stunts to keep the fans coming back, win or lose.  As a result, the minors have grown back to a robust 176 teams nationwide.
 

Visit one, and you understand why. You park your car for a couple bucks, and in a couple minutes, you’re in your seat.  Every employee you meet seems to be working overtime to keep you fat and happy. They remember the season ticket holders’ names, and welcome them back each night.
 

The workers shower the fans with free frisbees, candy bars and bunched-up t-shirts fired from sling-shots. Between innings, they sponsor the usual potpourri of minor league gags, including the dizzy bat race, the hula hoop contest and a sumo wrestling match -- always involving fans pulled from the stands.   
 

A minor league baseball park is no place for the self-conscious. You should expect to let your hair down and join the show.
 

Kids play on the grass embankments, stand on the dugouts and sing "Take me out to the Ballgame" during the seventh inning stretch -- while waving to their parents -- and get to run around the bases when the game's over. 
 

Fans don't leave minor league games early, because they’re enjoying the whole experience, not just the outcome.
 

In the minors, even the players aim top lease.  Unlike the lolly gaggers in the majors, the bush leaguers take their at-bats as if they're being timed, they don't whine about the umpire’s calls and they actually run all the way to first base on hopeless ground balls.  Of course, they’d better, or they’re gone.  
 

The players put their hearts in their work for less than they could make flipping burgers at McDonald's. So, why do it?  Because after four or five years of flipping burgers, McDonald’s will never give you a big league contract.  Do any of these guys really have a chance?  As one manager told me, "If you got a uniform, you got a chance."
 

These guys are doing what they've dreamed about all their lives: playing baseball.
 

Some dreams are a little more modest. I met two brothers who had good jobs at Oldsmobile, but asked the Lansing Lugnuts if they could walk around the park with trash cans.  They only got minimum wage – and all the cans they could find.  "If it wasn't fun,” one told me, “we wouldn't be here."
 

He then picked up his trash can, turned toward his buddies in the stands and bellowed, "Get yer trraaaaaash. Cold trash here!  Get yer trash!"
 

And that, in a peanut shell, is the difference between the majors and the minors: Everyone in the minors is making less money, and having more fun.

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon



Bonus Bacon Blog

Here's a bonus Bacon Blog, on a Wednesday no less.

Meet the NFL's Most Interesting Man, Zoltan Mesko, in today's WallStreet Journal.  (It's free today.  After that, I won't charge you, but they will.)

>View Article Here  

Of course, you can always get the paper paper, where they gave it a full back page.

Now, to get back to this week's Bacon Blog, on minor league baseball.  (Little tease for you.) 

Enjoy your, um, middle of the week, I guess.  (Why not?)

As always, thanks for reading!

-John

Bullfighting: The Good, The Bad and the Ugly

August 13, 2010

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When I read the Spanish province of Catalonia voted to outlaw bullfighting, I was not surprised. A few years ago I traveled through Spain to write about bullfighting. Along the way, I met Barcelona’s director of tourism, and asked her why bullfighting was much less popular in Barcelona than the rest of Spain. She replied, “It is because we are civilized.”


Bullfighting’s biggest opponents ,in fact, have always been Spaniards.  Even bullfighting’s fans don’t brag about the 13,000 bulls killed every year in the ring, or claim they deserve to be killed.  


But I’m not sure we’re in a position to judge bullfighting too harshly. We kill more than 35 million cows every year, and 100 million pigs and eight billion chickens. Not even Birkenstocks grow on trees.  


The Spanish bulls might have it better than your average American bull. They’re not castrated or stuck in a veal pen but roam freely on the range and mate for life. Whether it’s better to die by a cattle prod and a knife to the throat or a sword to the back, after being allowed a few swipes at the swordsman, is debatable. But if you’ve never seen a bull killed outside of a bullring, you might be just as appalled by an Omaha slaughterhouse.


No one claims a bull fight is fair.  But it would be a mistake to think the whole thing is just a mere contest. The aficionados don't go to the bullfights to see who "wins” any more than music critics go the opera to see who finishes first.  


It’s not a game, but a performance. Done poorly, bullfighting is humiliating and revolting, diminishing everyone involved.  One bad bullfighter I saw named Jesulin kept shuffling his feet as if he was standing on a frying pan.  He had no poise, no control.  The bull ran when he wanted it to stop; it stopped when he wanted it to run; and then it simply ignored him altogether and walked away, leaving him standing there like a suitor trying to look brave after being slapped in public. When he drew his sword to end the bull’s life, I had to look away. It was that bad.        


But seeing it done well was just as memorable.  Francisco Ordonez is one of Spain’s best bullfighters.  His grandfather was the inspiration for Ernest Hemingway’s Pedro Romero in The Sun Also Rises.  Unlike Jesulin, Ordonez planted his feet as if they’d been nailed there.  He was fearless, and exuded complete control, like a conductor who could create exactly what he wanted with the slightest gesture – and knew it. 


In just seconds, he and his four-legged partner were dancing like they’d been doing it for years– first slowly and separately, then quickly and closely, but always in concert, with Ordonez leaving the bull in position for his next pass the way a good pool player leaves the cue ball poised for his next shot. 


After a flurry of passes, Ordonez nodded respectfully to the mesmerized bull, then strode confidently away from him, trusting the bull with his back.  He did not work to impress the crowd, but the bull – and he did.  

When the dance was over, Fran guided the long sword directly over the bull’s horns, and thrust downward into the bull’s back.  He then walked away, certain he had done it right.  Two beats later, the bull fell on its side.  


Hemingway wrote, “From amoral point of view, the whole bullfight is indefensible.  But whoever reads this can only truly make such a judgment when he, or she,has seen the things that are spoken of here.”


Bullfighting might be many things, but only a person who has never seen it done well could claim it lacks courage, skill and art.

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon



The All-Star Next Door

August 6, 2010

DEAR LOYAL READERS

Well, turns out teaching in Chicago on Thursdays can mess up your schedule a little bit -- and more so when you throw in the Big Ten media days Monday and Tuesday this week. That means I didn't go home between Thursdays, and that means Michigan Radio has to pay for studio time here to knock out the weekly commentary.  They have done it a few times, God bless 'em, but not this week, partly because there aren't any truly hot topics that beg to be addressed.  And that means, this week at least, that no, we don't have a fresh commentary for you, but are-run of a piece about Brandon Inge from last summer. 

The good news is it's still as relevant today as when I wrote it, and second, because YOU amazing folks have expanded the subscriber rolls to over 70,000 (holy mackeral!) that most of you probably missed it the first time around. So act like it's new, and I will too. 

I'm coming home on the train today, though -- can't miss the UM hockey alumni weekend! -- and will have fresh goods for all of you next week. Scout's honor. 

Hope you're all enjoying the rest of this hot hot summer while you can!  Sure beats the cold cold winter!

And, as always, THANK YOU!

-JUB



THE ALL-STAR NEXT DOOR 

Three years ago, a few folks in Dexter, Michigan – a small farming town just west of Ann Arbor– were buzzing with rumors that the only house for sale in their neighborhood might finally be sold.    

I found out from my mom, who found out from her hair-dresser, Chantel Williams, who lived next door to the vacant house, that Shani Inge and her husband, Brandon, had bought it. They moved to Dexter even though it’s a full hour from his office. He works at Comerica Park, in Detroit, playing third base for the Tigers. In fact, he just played in his first All-Star game. But you’d never guess it from the way he looks – and certainly not from the way he acts.   

A friend of mine I’ll call “Fred Fragner” – because that’s his name -- is a home inspector. When Fragner knocked on the Inge’s door to do his job, the guy who answered looked so young, Fragner figured he was probably the family’s kid back from college.  

Inge gave Fragner the full tour of the house, ending in the basement.  There, Fragner noticed more baseball memorabilia than even the manliest of man-caves typically has.   

“You play ball?”  Fragner asked.

Inge looked at him, to see if he was serious.  “Yeah, I do.”

“For who?”

“For the Tigers.”

“The Louisiana State Tigers?” Fragner asked, still refusing to believe the guy was old enough to be a major leaguer.

“No, the Detroit Tigers!”

“The Tigers?!?  You’re not big enough!”

Inge chuckled, and took it right in stride. 

Before Inge left for the park that day, he asked Fragner if there was anything he could do for him. Fragner asked for an autographed baseball card. No problem, Inge said.  After Fragner finished his work, on the way out he saw, on the kitchen table, a baseball card signed by Brandon Inge – and five more, just for him.   

In fairness to Fragner, a lot of folks can’t believe the 5-11 Inge is a major leaguer.  Inge is so inconspicuous, a local softball team daringly put him on their roster, called him “Charlie” -- and got away with it for weeks.  

The kids at the University of Michigan’s C.S. Mott’s Children’s Hospital have been quicker on the uptake. Brandon’s wife Shani had worked there, and both their boys were born there. But what hooked her husband was meeting the patients.   

Inge has been a frequent visitor ever since, and didn’t need to be prodded to donate $100,000 to build a new play area for the young patients.  Instead of naming it after themselves, the Inges have asked the kids to come up with a name for it.      

Inge was scheduled to meet one of those kids, eight-year-old Tommy Schomaker, this spring. But Inge missed him because Tommy had to be rushed that very day into surgery to receive a heart transplant.  When Inge came back a few weeks later, Tommy asked for an autograph.  Inge agreed, on one condition: Tommy had to give him one, too – right on Inge’s right forearm.   

When Inge stepped into the batter’s box that night, he looked down at Tommy’s autograph –then knocked the ball over the wall for a two-run homer.     

I’ve never met Brandon Inge. I’d like to, but I don’t need to.  I feel like I already know him. 

He’s the All-Star who lives next door. 

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon


The Wheels of Justice Grind Slowly -- But They Do Grind

July 30, 2010

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The gears of justice grind slowly, but they do grind, and sometimes they actually get their man– or woman, as the case may be.
 

The sports world saw its share of slow-moving justice this week, from the global to the local. 


New York Yankees’ third basemen Alex Rodriguez has already admitted he used steroids, but only after his tests were leaked to the press. He’s still playing, and is now one just home run away from hitting 600. Twenty years ago this would have been big news – but since suspected steroid users Sammy Sosa and Barry Bonds crossed that threshold, the luster is lost. About half of those polled said they simply don’t care – and they polled New Yorkers. If they don’t care, why should we?  


Rodriguez cheated himself out of his own celebration. Seems about right to me. 


Overseas, seven-time Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong dropped from the leader board for the first time in years. He’s long been suspected of using performance-enhancing drugs, too, but he’s never failed a drug test. Still, the circumstantial evidence is mounting. Greg Lemond, the first American to win the Tour in 1986, publicly wondered years ago why Armstrong had worked with a dirty doctor in Italy known to traffic in steroids. But the blow back hit not Armstrong but Lemond, who felt compelled to apologize for his comments.  


In 2006, Floyd Landis pulled off one of the greatest finishes in Tour de France history, then tested positive for drugs.  He denied it, he denied it and he denied it– until this spring, when he ‘fessed up. But, he said, Armstrong took them too.  


It was a gutless act from a gutless man, but that doesn’t mean he wasn’t telling the truth –for once.  Armstrong brushed it off, and given Landis’s record for integrity, it wasn’t hard to do. But it seems the noose is slowly tightening, and we’ve not heard the end of this story.   


We’re also missing the story in golf. Yes, Tiger Woods’s love life made great tabloid fodder, and has cost him millions in endorsements and probably his marriage– but not his career. No, the real story, the one few seem to be pursuing, centers on his mysterious Canadian doctor. Dr. Tony Galea has been linked to a number of drug-using athletes, and is currently facing charges. Woods says he’s never taken any performance-enhancing drugs, but if so, why would you ever call a doctor like Galea? Best case scenario: it was an extremely stupid decision.  


Golf is the only sport where you’re expected to call penalties on yourself, even when no one’s watching. So if Woods is found guilty, he should not expect his sport to be very forgiving. He will be stripped of every tournament he has ever won. Mark my words: Watch this one carefully.


And now to our own backyard.   


You might recall Kimberly Knight, the woman who appeared in court a year ago to face charges she’d embezzled almost a million dollars from the kids who play in the Ann Arbor Amateur Hockey Association. Judge Melinda Morris gave her a shockingly light suspended sentence, requiring Knight to return only a small fraction of the money, with no jail time.  


Well, Knight showed her first collision with the law was no fluke when she failed to produce court-ordered tax records, and faced unrelated fraud charges. Morris gave her a minimum two-year sentence. Though I’d still like to see Knight forced to give far more of the stolen money back to the kids who need it, it was good to see a little accountability, at least.  


These examples remind me of a quote from Winston Churchill.  When he was asked about democracy– including our ideas of justice – he said, “It’s the worst system in the world – except for all the others.”


So it was nice to see the worst system in the world have a pretty good week.

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon



The Camp Director

Dear Loyal Readers,

I'm traveling this week so I didn't get a chance to tape a new commentary, so I hope you will enjoy this updated version of one from last year, about former Camp Director Pat Rode -- one of the more popular ones we've done. 

In the meantime, we are also working to transfer the site to a better host, so we can get rid of the typo-glitches many of you experience, make it easier to comment, and ensure that you can get all the taped commentaries in full through the archives. In other words, it should be just plain better.

Don't forget that you can listen to all these commentaries, thanks to the fine folks at Michigan Radio who work hard to make them sound professional! 

I'll be back next week.  I look forward to connecting with you again, then!

-John


THE CAMP DIRECTOR


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Download | Duration: 00:03:28



With the weak economy, and high school coaches urging their players to attend “voluntary” work outs, enrollment for summer camps is down nationwide about 10-percent. But if the choice is between team workouts and summer camp, I say, summer camp wins hands-down.       

Let me explain.   

I didn’t want to go to summer camp. 

I spent my summers growing up at our family cottage near Traverse City. The idea of going to Camp Hayo-Went-Ha– a YMCA camp on the lake -- didn’t interest me.  I liked playing baseball, riding bikes and going to hockey school with my best friend. I figured the kids who went to Hayo-Went-Ha either couldn’t play baseball or didn’t have many friends. 

But by my sixteenth birthday, thanks to the curveball, I couldn’t play baseball either. Far sadder, my best friend had been killed in a car accident.   

With nothing else to do, I went to Camp Hayo-Went-Ha. I discovered the kids there were tougher than most of my hockey teammates. And they got to go on exotic trips from the Rockies to Nova Scotia.   

The camp has the rustic, tidy look of the "Swiss Family Robinson" movie set, but camp sessions play out more like episodes of Fantasy Island. The anxious newcomers hope that special place will help them find what they’re missing.   

The man who choreographed those life-changing experiences for me and 10,000 other brave souls stepped down 11 years ago. Pat Rode, now 80, worked hard to give bored kids some adventure, forgotten kids some attention and just about everyone -- campers and counselors alike -- a sense of belonging.   

Rode based camp on his belief that we can’t get through life alone, but there are plenty of people willing to help. As a child Rode was sickly, his father was often gone, and his mother was buried on his 12th birthday. "But,"he told me, "so many people went out of their way to help me that, well, you've got to give back." 

He did. In addition to his time and energy, Rode gave former campers money to pay for rent, college tuition, plane tickets and even bail. All but one has paid him back. Rode believes in second chances. 

At camp I learned how important it is to be needed. When a young camper lost his mother in a car accident, I could only tell him what it felt like when my best friend died. I was surprised this helped him -- and even more surprised how much this helped me.   

That’s why, when my brother was searching for direction 27 years ago, I suggested he join the camp staff. 

He says it absolutely changed his life. Being responsible for the kids made him think about what's important. It made him realize his abilities. And he made lifelong friendships there.   

That's what summer camp did for him. 

After camp, my brother climbed Mt. Ranier, earned his bachelor’s and launched his career.  And when he got married, Pat Rode was there. 

When Rode announced that 1998 would behis last summer, his old campers and counselors flooded his office with letters, calls and visits.  At his final farewell ceremony, a dozen alums flew in just to thank him. 

As always, Rode lit his candle and those of his staff members, who then lit their campers' candles, too, until the once dark hall was bright enough to see the tears on the faces of Pat Rode's campers, his counselors, and the old camp director himself.   

Then everyone blew out their candles,returning the big room to its original darkness, and listened to Pat Rode say goodbye. My brother draped his right arm around his wife, and his left arm around me.  After all those years, I still felt part of something special – and I still do.   

That’s what summer camp did for me. 

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon


Goodbye, Mr. Brown

July 16, 2010

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It was a beautiful summer morning. I walked from my home in Ann Arbor, down State Street, to St. Thomas Church. A crowd had already gathered outside, waiting to pay respects to our old friend, Mr. Brown. 

No one told us to call him that. We just did.   

In 1937, Mr. Brown’s father and grandfather opened a store called College Shoe Repair. Mr. Brown took over the business in 1951, the same year he married Dorothy– or Mrs. Brown, to us. They worked together every day. They had seven kids, and all of them worked at the store at some point.  

When the shoe repair business slowed down in the seventies, Mr. Brown started selling hockey equipment and sharpening skates. That’s how most of us got to know him.    

Mr. Brown was gruff and sometimes grouchy. He had a temper, and he didn’t suffer fools too gladly. But if he was no glad-hander, he was no pretender, either. There was not a phony bone in that man’s body.  If he got to know you– and he seemed to know everyone who visited his place more than twice– you soon discovered he was as loyal as a hunting dog, and good company.    

Mr. Brown never played hockey himself, but he knew more about the local hockey scene than just about anyone in town. His store served as the nerve center for everybody who played or coached or reffed or drove their kids to some freezing rink at six in the morning. When I coached the Huron high school hockey team, he never had to ask me how we were doing, because he already knew – and on some days, he seemed to know better than I did.   

Most of all, Mr. Brown cared. He cared about the quality of his work, whether he was resoling a pair of shoes or re-palming a pair of hockey gloves. He cared about his customers, and the people who played the game, from Mites to Masters. Mr. Brown often grumbled about the homeless people around his store, but then you’d catch him slipping one of them a few bucks just for washing his windows.   

I wonder who will care about all those people now.   

After the service, I walked back from St. Thomas, right up State Street, to take another walk around Mr. Brown’s block. I strolled past Hank at Van Bovens, Jerome at the Diag Party Store, Dave at White’s Market, Marizio at New York Pizza Delivery, John at Gold Bond Cleaners and right next door, Pete at Frank’s Restaurant. I know them all by name, and they all know me – and hundreds of other customers, too, because they’re not customers to them. They’re friends.    

When I coached the high school team, each fall we had to raise money to keep our team going. We learned pretty quickly that there was no point asking the franchise stores on that block, or anywhere else. They have no idea who you are, they don’t care, and they’ll tell you to call the people at corporate – who care even less.   

But every one of those Mom and Pop stores bought an ad in our program, even though they’re all fighting for survival.  That’s what friends do.   

I fear their days are numbered. The rent on that block is astronomical, as much as $10,000 a month. The chain stores come in, and if it proves too much for them, what do they care? They just pull out – and leave behind a higher rate for everyone else, and an empty storefront, some times for years.   

But that’s capitalism, and if you believe in the free market, there’s not much you can say. But you’d have to be blind not to see the cost.   

We’re losing our community. We’re losing our sense of belonging. We’re losing our friends. 

My last stop on my tour was Mr. Brown’s store. I looked down at my shoes, which Mr. Brown had shined himself a half-dozen times, and re-soled once.  I looked up at the door, and read a hand-written sign that said, “Death in the Family. Closed Saturday. Open Monday.” 

I hope it always is. 

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon



Where it Started -- and Almost Ended

July 9, 2010

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Whenever I drive up US-23, I can’t resist gazing at two structures on my right: The Whitmore Lake high school stadium press box, where my writing career started, and the big red ski jump on Whitmore Lake, where it almost ended.  

I once volunteered to visit the Whitmore Lake Ski Club, the oldest in the state, to try water ski jumping. The problem is, this is not something you can gradually work up to. It's your basic all-or-nothing proposition.   

Take our coach, Hal Baker.  On several occasions he had cleared a hundred feet, the sport’s main milestone, but he one time he hit the side of the jump so hard, he embedded white paint in his skin. A few times, he leaned back too far, causing him to fall backward into the water – at 50 miles-per-hour.   

“I’ve been pulled out unconscious a few times,” Baker said, with a reassuring maniacal cackle. This was a man who knew the thrill of victory, and the unconsciousness of defeat.    

Jumpers face four basic obstacles. First, the jump about 20 feet long and ten feet high, and covered in wax and water, so it feels like you’re hitting ice.  If you’re not ready for it, your skis will shoot out from under you, and you’ll get dragged over the jump on your backside -- or your head.  Second, the boat pulls you diagonally across the jump. If you fight it, you’ll be – you guessed it -- dragged over the jump on your backside -- or your head. See a pattern here? 

But wait! There’s more. Because the jump is, well, a jump, as you slide up the incline, your knees get shoved into your chin. This is called "crushing.” When you see people flying off the jump in that state, you understand why.     

To combat these forces, you have to squat down, lock your knees and lean forward, holding the handle hard against your right hip. In other words, do whatever feels the most unnatural.   

If we actually made it over the jump, Baker said, "Don’t look down, or you’ll go down." He told us to focus on the shore line instead.   

Yeah, right. That happens. I made a deal with myself right then and there: If I got over the jump without ripping my face off, I could look anywhere I damn well pleased. 

I hopped into the water, and they threw me a hockey helmet.  Note this well: If you find yourself hopping into the water and someone throws you a hockey helmet, you might think twice about what you're about to do.      

When I grabbed the rope, Baker asked, “Ready?”  

“Ready!” I yelled.  It wasn’t true – just protocol.   

I popped up, and the driver sent me right to the jump.  I squatted down, locked my knees, and pulled the handle hard to my right hip – all textbook.   

No matter. When I hit that jump,I crushed like a house of cards under a steamroller. But, just for fun, I also crossed my skis. I went flew over the jump with all the grace and style of Wile E. Coyote.  

Despite my efforts, I did not hurt myself. So, my confidence grew. But my ability did not.  My second attempt was just as bad. At this rate, I realized, the eleven-year-old kid going next would embarrass me. Focus, Bacon. Focus!   

On my third attempt I finally avoided crushing, but everything else was still a mess.  My fourth and final attempt, however, proved to be the charm.  I looked so good I couldn’t resist admiring my skis flying over the edge, thus committing the final sin: "If you look down, you go down."  No joke,turns out.  I plunged straight into the water face first like,okay, Wile E. Coyote again.  But I neglected to let go of the rope,and got dragged underwater for about a hundred feet or so.   

Well, I came, I saw, I had lake water pounded into every hole in my head.  It took me days to get the stuff out of my ears.   

The eleven-year old kid, by the way,nailed it on his second attempt.   

And so, I became a sports writer. 

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon



World's Greatest Game?

July 2, 2010

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The 2010 World Cup is in full swing – even if the U.S. was eliminated in the second round. I’ve played soccer, coached it and covered it, and there’s a lotto like about the sport.   

First, soccer players are great athletes. The pros run about six miles a game. They can settle the ball down from any direction in a split second, play keep away with it for days, and then blast it right on target, with either foot.      

For TV viewers, it’s a pleasure to see the great expanse of green on your screen, with no TV timeouts interrupting play. And, unlike the World Series, the world is actually invited to play in the World Cup. It’s almost every nation’s favorite sport. And you can play it anywhere, with anything.    

I’ve seen soccer played in the streets of Bangkok, the alleys of Buenos Aires, and the wide-open fields of British public schools. I’ve seen them play under the lights of Tokyo’s fenced-in asphalt courts, and during dusk on the Canary Island’s empty beaches, with just two sandals for a goal. 

It is, truly, the world’s game. That’s why Time magazine contributor Daniel Okrent concluded the best athlete of all time isn’t Babe Ruth or Muhammad Ali or Michael Jordan, but Pele. Because, he said, everyone plays soccer.   

But you don’t have to be a xenophobe or a philistine or just a knucklehead to find fault with this game. Take the start.  I counted the Germans passing the ball at midfield 17 times before they even considered advancing forward – which is, after all, where the goal is located.     

When they finally do try to score, there’s an excellent chance the play will be called offside, which is determined by an imaginary line that goes back and forth with the last defender. Yes, it’s hard to tell, which might explain why the refs blow the call half the time. Or perhaps it’s because they are the worst officials I’ve ever seen – in any sport.  

As a result, a goal in soccer is as rare as Halley’s Comet. The World Cup’s first nine matches featured a grand total of seven goals. That’s about one goal every two hours – and games are only 90 minutes.   

Or, about that. No one can tell for sure, because whenever a player is injured, the referee tacks on extra time. But only he knows how much. It’s the only game in the world where just one guy knows when it ends.   

What’s worse than the Official Pretend Clock are the unofficial pretend injuries. When you see a player jump in the air, fall to the ground, and spin like a lathe, you start looking for a sniper in the stands, until the replay shows he wasn’t touched by…anything. Every sport in the world celebrates toughness –mental or physical – except this one, which celebrates athletes acting like wimps.   

Add it all up – and it all adds up to a one-one tie, soccer’s favorite score. This is not a problem just for Americans suffering from ADD, but for anyone who cares about competition. The whole idea of keeping score, after all, is to see who’s better. But in this year’s first round of 48 games, about one-quarter ended in ties – usually one-to-one.  

But in the second round, even the World Cup needs to pick a winner.  If 30 minutes of overtime can’t settle it, they go to a shoot-out, where players from each team take turns shooting directly on the helpless goalie, who has to guess if the shooter will kick it to the right, or the left.  It has all the strategic intrigue of rock-paper-scissors – without the scissors.   

So they spend two hours playing a game in which it’s virtually impossible to score – then settle it with an unrelated contest in which it’s virtually impossible not to score. And that’s how the world’s favorite sport picks the world’s best team.   

So, yes, soccer is the World’s Game.  It’s just not the world’s greatest game.  

Copyright© 2010, Michigan Radio

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/johnubacon


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